MILAN MEN'S FASHION WEEK: DAY ONE RECAP

Kevin Gorian
MILAN MEN'S FASHION WEEK: DAY ONE RECAP

All images via Milan Fashion Week

The moment we’ve all been waiting for has arrived: Milan Men’s Fashion Week is here, bringing with it the trends that will define the Fall/Winter 2025-26 season. Today, Friday, January 17, a total of 16 brands unveiled their latest collections in Italy’s style capital. Of these, 13 opted for presentations, while only three staged full runway shows.

The Presentations

Federico Cina, Altea, 1989 Studio, Qasimi, Brunello Cucinelli, La Martina, NOSKRA, C.P. Company, GR10K, hevó, Grossi, Blauer x Pirelli, and Fay chose non-traditional formats to debut their latest offerings.

Federico Cina welcomed attendees to Fondazione Sozzani, presenting a collection grounded in nostalgia and the power of clothing to preserve memories of loved ones. Meanwhile, Qasimi made its Milan debut with a collaboration featuring M?ori artist Emily Karaka. This partnership resulted in a series of ensembles addressing global Indigenous issues, emphasizing land rights, ancestral connections, and resilience.

Brunello Cucinelli, fresh off a stellar showing at Pitti Uomo, unveiled a collection at Viale Montello 16 where subdued tones took center stage, offering a dynamic twist on the brand’s signature balance of fresh elegance. Nearby, La Martina channeled its equestrian roots with Polo-inspired designs, delivering sporty, adventurous pieces that will surely delight both players and fans of the classic sport.

NOSKRA continued its minimalist approach, focusing on functional designs with a sustainable ethos. Their flowing sartorial looks not only drew inspiration from nature but aimed to give back to it.

C.P. Company stayed true to its roots, presenting a range of urban exploration-ready coats and jackets at Via Fiamma 18. Known for innovation since 1971, the brand’s latest offerings epitomize functionality tailored for harsh European winters.

Experimental brand GR10K transformed its presentation into a performance piece, exploring its ethos through reimagined workwear. Drawing inspiration from the Der Blaue Reiter art collective, the collection married fashion and art in a way that paid homage to figures like Wassily Kandinsky and Franz Marc.

For hevó, simplicity reigned supreme at their Via Friuli 62 showroom, where textures, volumes, and unconventional materials challenged traditional notions of masculine elegance. The collection will be on display until February 28 for those who wish to immerse themselves in its understated sophistication.

The Runways

Pierre-Louis Mascia, PDF, and Philipp Plein chose to captivate audiences with full-fledged runway shows.

Pierre-Louis Mascia’s Bright Star collection embraced themes of melancholy and delicacy, combining bright colors, intricate patterns, and a youthful aesthetic with baroque opulence. This fusion of softness and extravagance created stunning material and temporal hybrids, making it a standout of the day.

PDF brought urban aesthetics to the forefront with oversized silhouettes, city-inspired hues, and a rebellious edge that likely wouldn’t have passed parental approval in our teenage years. Models spray-painted the pristine white walls of the set, encapsulating the creativity and audacity that defines modern fashion.

Finally, Philipp Plein showcased a vision of the rebellious yet elegant man with a collection brimming with variety: tailored suits, varsity jackets, revealing dresses, sheer fabrics, sneakers, combat boots, and sequins. This bold, eclectic range is clearly designed for a youthful audience ready to own the night.

If day one was this exciting, what surprises await us in the days to come? Stay tuned to our website and social media for all the updates.